» Construction » Household building »Sliding gates on the middle beam

Sliding gates on the middle beam


This summer I decided to put myself in the gates, the choice fell on the withdrawable option. After reviewing and scrolling through an nth amount of information, I opted for a mechanism with an average beam, since the upper one limits the height, and the lower one, we must constantly clean it in our winters. There is a lot of information on this topic on the Internet, but it is increasingly advertising this type of gate, but there are no separate sites. I decided to fill this gap, using the example of video shooting my gates. If it helps anyone, I will be glad.


Used tools:

Shovel, rotary hammer, angle grinder, welding machine, screwdriver.

Materials: Professional pipe 40 * 20-24m, 60 * 40-6m, pipe diameter 20mm-14m, channel 120mm-4m, 4 rollers with a forged bearing, bearing diameter 30mm-6pcs, bolt with nut 100 * 12mm-6pcs, 2 eyes under the bottom. clamps.


The first step was to dig a trench 1.5 * 0.3 m and a depth of 1.2 m under the mortgages made of 5 mm iron, in the form of two squares 0.2 * 0.2 m. Welded four reinforcement corners to the mortgages, and paired them with longitudinal trim so that the size at the outer edges of the squares was 1.4 m.

Filled with concrete and left to set for two weeks

Meanwhile, from prof. 40 * 20mm pipe, the section of the gate was welded 4.5 * 1.7m. The middle beam is made of profiled pipe 60 * 40mm and 4.5m long, guides from 20mm pipes welded on each side

I welded two 120mm channels with a height of 1m to the mortgages and connected them to each other for rigidity, I strengthened the joints of the channel with the mortgage with scarves. Then, at a height of 0.8m, I installed the lower pair of rollers on the bolts, hung the middle beam and, in fact, drilled holes for the upper pair.

After making sure that the middle beam walks perfectly along the guides, I welded the prepared section to it, setting the lower gap to 50mm.

For cantilever stiffness of the gate, I added two diagonal extensions from a 20mm pipe. I assembled the upper and lower stops from 30 mm bearings, of which I also assembled the lower retainer on the reciprocal 120 mm channel (I just stayed).

At the end of welding, he opened the structure with soil and sewed it with corrugated board. In principle, everything, if anyone doesn’t understand what, write in comments.








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12 comments
Quote: korbenzkol
Judging by your photo, the gates move along the fence. So you don’t have much snow. We will have winter only tomorrow, and today it’s a one and a half meter snowdrift, so it will not be possible to open the gate without shovels without throwing a ton of three snows.

And if you have a swing gate, how much snow will need to be thrown over?
Rather, you are about the gate "along the fence", poorly informed. We have a lot of snow, but I do not clean it along the fence. Not necessary.
Judging by your photo, the gates move along the fence. So you don’t have much snow. We will have winter only tomorrow, and today it’s a one and a half meter snowdrift, so it will not be possible to open the gate without shovels without throwing a ton of three snows.
It turns out no more expensive. You have a guide - a pipe 60 * 40. In my case, it is made from a 60 * 60 pipe. It is more expensive by some small smallness))))). But thin pipes, like yours, are not needed for her - the carriages are inside her. That is, it turns out cheaper "almost two pipes 20 * 20")))) In addition, it itself can be a supporting structural element, which is also a saving.
... The only thing - for the manufacture of one carriage I needed 5 bearings (two pairs and one for transverse support. That is, only 10.
... But I believe that the gate can be sewn with a decorative sheet on both sides (Profiled sheeting, PVC panel, siding, etc.) as an unconditional plus of the lower beam location. After all, the view from the yard is also important.
Author
You are right, thank you for criticism
Quote: mr.bitykov
I posted this homemade product on the site, for those to whom it is to help, and not at all to dispute the pros and cons of this or that design of the sliding gates.

And here you are wrong. Each homemade product has pros and cons, so why repeat YOUR minuses to the rest for whom you posted it, as it were? Not everyone can identify and detect them. And the second, you posted, and others have the right to discuss and express their opinion. You also will not hurt to listen to him.
Something you are not about that "ruffled", nor who argues with you. Rather, you dispute.
Author
And you want to argue, first of all, compare the cost of the guide and rollers with all the accessories, with what I suggested.
Author
I posted this homemade product on the site, for those to whom it is to help, and not at all to dispute the pros and cons of this or that design of the sliding gates.
Quote: Valery
So the guide is the same slot down on the gate welded.

And not only the guide, but also the teeth of the drive (gear rack) themselves look down. And nothing gets there. I have had no problems in 5 years.
So the guide is the same slot down on the gate welded. Nothing will get there! And if moisture forms, then the inside of the guide will simply be wet and that’s it. If it freezes later, the carriage bearings will easily pass through it ...
Author
If he notes, it’s not scary, I meant ice, when during the day it is plus or zero, and all the porridge falls into the slot, and in the evening it is frost.
And how much snow do you have there? I have a “standard circuit” gate - with a lower guide on the gate itself, which moves on two inner carriages. The slot in the guide is below - if snow enters, it is replaced by bearings. I noticed half a meter - no problems.

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