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Making a DIY soldering iron for plastic

Fixtures / Instruments
Added 34 commentary

Every man who plans to change water pipes in his house should have a special soldering iron that can solder polypropylene pipes. Without it, it will not be possible to correctly connect fittings and pipes into one system. It is unlikely that it will be rational to acquire expensive deviceif they will be used at best every few years.

Of course, there are cheaper soldering irons for polypropylene, but they are considered almost disposable. If you want to save money and get a really high-quality tool, then it's better to do it yourself.

Materials and tools for homemade
• old iron (the main thing is that it has a heating element in good condition);
• Soviet metal constructor;
• in the drill there is a special rubberized handle, it will be required for homemade work;
• toggle switch;
• grinder;
• asbestos cord;
• electrical tape.


The process of making a soldering iron
This device can solder not only pipes, but also other things useful for the household from polypropylene, it would be a desire. Plastic nowadays replaces half of other expensive materials.

Step 1. Dismantling the old iron
At this stage, you will need a grinder, the heating element of the iron needs to be rid of unnecessary parts and make an aluminum plate. We leave only the heating element, the light bulb and the heating power controller.



Step 2. The base of the metal constructor
A box is made from the designer, a handle from the drill and a light bulb from the iron are attached to it. It is necessary to bring the on / off switch and heating control to the wire. All wires are connected together.


Step 3. Assembling a soldering iron
The metal box from the designer must be attached to the base. An asbestos gasket must be present between these elements. The box is screwed on with ordinary bolts.

Conclusion
Quickly and without much effort, a soldering iron for plastic was made.A very useful thing, given that only old and unnecessary materials for the house were used to make it.
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34 commentary
0
Reply To quote A complaint
I did not doubt that it would work, but it would work poorly (due to unequal heating of the nozzles) and, I remain in my opinion, it is not safe.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Valery
Why would the gasket be from the cord ???? Of course, from sheet asbestos !.
Why would the gasket be from sheet asbestos ???? The list says: asbestos cord!
Quote: Valery
Of course, it is not visible - how will the gasket be visible? She’s sandwiched between the metal parts.
The photo clearly shows that at the corner from the box there is no asbestos, but a carbolite iron pad.
Quote: Valery
Why M4 ??? M4 - only the plates are interconnected. And there are enough of them - the platform is rigid. And in the sole is M6 thread - with the same bolts, it, being an iron, was attached to the handle ... Ivan, didn’t you disassemble the old irons? )))))
In the designers of the Soviet bolts were M4, and the size of the holes in the corner to which the sole is attached, and in the box are the same.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Then on the other hand the box is not fixed at all?
0
Reply To quote A complaint
All wires are connected together.

Yeah! ... All three! ))))
But I do not deny that the article was written chaotically ... (Apparently, because the author did not know what he was writing about - he did not hold such a soldering iron in his hands.) I only say that the construction is completely viable! She will work! And there is no particular danger there!
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Asbestos gasket, presumably, from the cord.
Why would the gasket be from the cord ???? Of course, from sheet asbestos !.
For what it is not said, most likely - for thermal insulation, but in the photo in the place of contact of the box with an asbestos iron, it is just not visible.
Of course, it is not visible - how will the gasket be visible? She’s sandwiched between the metal parts.
And screwing a rather heavy iron with M4 bolts is not very good.

Why M4 ??? M4 - only the plates are interconnected. And there are enough of them - the platform is rigid. And in the sole is M6 thread - with the same bolts, it, being an iron, was attached to the handle ... Ivan, didn’t you disassemble the old irons? )))))
0
Reply To quote A complaint
There is a thread in blind holes.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
And on what else?))) There just connection of wires with TENami ...
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Valery
The box is screwed on with ordinary bolts.
I saw one more "ambush": the sole of the iron was not drilled through, at least nothing is known about it, so just cannot be screwed on, it is necessary to clamp it "in the spacer".
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Valery
And yet, about the "holes and dust":

Here, the perforation is not done on the electrical part, so no need to compare.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
All wires are connected together.
This is about the third wire.
The metal box from the designer must be attached to the base. An asbestos gasket must be present between these elements. The box is screwed on with ordinary bolts.

Asbestos gasket, presumably, from the cord. For what it is not said, most likely - for thermal insulation, but in the photo in the place of contact of the box with an asbestos iron, it is just not visible. And screwing a rather heavy iron with M4 bolts is not very good.
By the way, the temperature control knob has also been removed for some reason.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
It is unclear how the box is connected to the sole, maybe just clamped.

Step 3. Assembling a soldering iron
The metal box from the designer must be attached to the base. An asbestos gasket must be present between these elements. The box is screwed with ordinary bolts.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Now I was killing half an hour of time - I looked about industrial soldering irons ... It turns out that a little that confused me (power) ... this is my mistake. )))). I relied on the power of my soldering iron, thinking that they are all like that! But it turned out that my “Stern” with its two kilowatts was rather an exception.))) The bulk of the soldering irons has a capacity from 800 tons to one and a half kilowatts !!!! So, enough iron power for the eyes! )))
... And yet, about the "holes and dust":


0
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: MNS1961
The design on the video is much simpler and safer.
Of course, on the video - everything was done correctly, but the video, except for the idea itself, has nothing to do with the iron presented here.
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Dmitrij
Here is a video for those who didn’t understand anything.

Thank you, now everything is clear, but the design on the video is much simpler and safer.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Valery
Ivan, believe me, you are mistaken. No debris gets inside.
There is always a lot of dust at the construction site. This has nothing to do with the soldering of pipes.
Quote: Valery
The second is through an aluminum plate (which, by the way, is not on the list, but is in the text). The plate is firmly pressed, as is the sole.
In principle, it cannot be pressed tightly: the compression goes along the axis of the nozzles, and the contact of the plate with the sole along the roller is sideways, only God knows how the plate bends and skews, most likely the contact will be on the inside of the roller, not a plane, but a line . I would have made a copper or aluminum sleeve.
Quote: Valery
This, as it were, is intuitive!)))) The third wire in the cord (which is yellowish-greenish) asks himself to be screwed to the case!)))) And where else can I put it on?)))
Nothing is said about this, they themselves saw a lot of stupid products. You understand, but the author does not know.
Quote: Valery
They will not physically get to the hull!
Not the fact that there is inside - they did not show us.
Quote: Valery
And about rigidity you are in vain - these designers are quite rigid, plus a large number of attachment points.
It is unclear how the box is connected to the sole, maybe just clamped.

In general, I have a complaint not to the very principle of finalizing the iron for use as a soldering iron, but to the stupid implementation: why it was necessary to violate the worked-out factory design when it was possible to do on video: minimal alterations, maximum effect.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
At a construction site, you yourself know how much debris and dust are - all this will fly inside.

Ivan, believe me, you are mistaken. No debris gets inside. I tell you, as a person who soldered pipes: he puts a sleeve on the pipe, a fitting is installed on the mandrel, you need to hold it for a while, then it is placed on a stand (not on the floor), the fused fitting is put on the fused pipe ... We are waiting .. . Frozen ... We move to the next place ... We transfer it along with the stand!
Nothing is said about the manufacture of the stand - and this is a very important part. No way without her!
There, the temperature level was checked on both nozzles, here it will be different: one nozzle adjoins directly to the sole of the iron, and the second through a roller along the edge of the sole and through a pad pressed with unknown thermal resistance.
The second is through an aluminum plate (which, by the way, is not on the list, but is in the text). The plate is firmly pressed, as is the sole. Enough of the temperature there!
How is this known?
This, as it were, is intuitive!)))) The third wire in the cord (which is yellowish-greenish) asks himself to be screwed to the case!)))) And where else can I put it on?)))
Heater leads are dangerously close to the box, scary ...

In the iron, they are generally a centimeter from the metal sole and nothing.There is even a newer iron, and in the old heating elements it is pressed to the sole, and the contacts are within the perimeter of the sole! That is, from them to iron - just one radius of the heating element !!! 5mm approx! And the currents are not weak! And nothing - the air is dry there)))) ... They physically will not reach the hull! And about rigidity you are in vain - these designers are quite rigid, plus a large number of attachment points.

The article itself is written ... somehow "blurry" ... I agree with that. I understood everything well only because I worked and was well acquainted with such soldering irons and the process itself ...
..A person who did not see in the eye and does not know the process will find it difficult to understand, I agree ...

Although ... (Sorry, Dmitry)))), perhaps the article is "blurred" for the same reason ...))))
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Nevertheless, I caught a glimpse of the video posted Dmitrij at 18:09. There are almost no complaints about such a design as there: the same heating of the nozzles and the undisturbed electric part of the iron, except that the hole from the trimmed cover is covered with a metal plate so that the debris does not fly inside.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Valery
“Poor welding with consequences” arises not from a soldering iron, but from crooked hands!)))
An industrial-made soldering iron was at least slightly calculated and tested. There, the temperature level was checked on both nozzles, here it will be different: one nozzle adjoins directly to the sole of the iron, and the second through a roller along the edge of the sole and through a pad pressed with unknown thermal resistance. The temperature difference can lead to not optimal heating of the surfaces. By the way, in the picture from the video posted Dmitrij at 18:09, the nose of the iron is flat, the heating will be uniform.

Quote: Valery
As for the "leaky box" - then how is it dangerous? That a hole is just a plus!
At a construction site, you yourself know how much debris and dust are - all this will fly inside. Such a design, in my opinion, will not ensure the normal rigidity and strength of the entire device.

Quote: Valery
That metal is also (grounded).
How is this known? The heater leads are in dangerously close to the box, scary ... Why was it necessary to gnaw off the back of the iron? It was enough to cut the casing on the nose - that's all: there would be no complaints!
0
Reply To quote A complaint
By the way, I looked - nozzles are sold separately ....
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Explain under what conditions should it shy if the case is grounded?
+3
Reply To quote A complaint
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Bullshit - because it’s not safe: in a holey metal box from the designer there is mains voltage and asbestos. And because there is a danger of poor-quality welding with subsequent troubles.

“Poor welding with consequences” arises not from a soldering iron, but from crooked hands!)))
Excuse me, Ivan, but did you have an industrial soldering iron in your hands? In case, if not, I will tell you that he, in essence, "is the iron." Sole heating element and heating control. Even the shape is similar !!! ))))). And the fact that he has power declared 2 kilowatts, so an old one-kilowatt iron can be "kilowatt" new - "powerful"! At least my old Alesya drill (450 watts) is much (!!) more powerful than the modern Bosch, which claims 530 watts. And he, in turn, surpasses the power "Cologne", bought for low cost, which says "900 watts!"
As for the "leaky box" - then how is it dangerous? That a hole is just a plus! That metal is also (grounded). What wires inside? So they do not touch the body. In the end, and in the iron - differently ??? And in the electric stove ??? And in the electric convector ???
-2
Reply To quote A complaint
Ivan_Pokhmelev,
In the sense of electrical safety, it’s absolutely a misfortune here .. it flounders so that you yourself lay in a box like a pipe.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Bullshit - because it’s not safe: in a holey metal box from the designer there is mains voltage and asbestos. And because there is a danger of poor-quality welding with subsequent troubles.
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
Why bullshit? If someone is 30 dollars - expensive, but there is an old iron, it may come in handy! Not all are rich ...
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
I bought a good machine for $ 50 (approximately). And then it is so expensive, because in a metal suitcase, with a good stand and a set of sleeves and mandrels for all diameters up to 63.
... Doors and sleeves must be sold separately, because I saw soldering irons WITHOUT THEM on sale (purely "carcass"). Not interested, really. I'm not a plumber - I took it for myself. Therefore, I immediately took the kit.
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
Sorry, you may not have cooked polypropylene, so you have a poor idea of ​​the main points. The device melts only a thin layer of plastic. Like all greasy plastics, polypropylene has very low thermal conductivity, and therefore the pipe will remain solid even when the top layer is already boiling. The pipe and fitting initially have a difference in size - it is this difference that should melt on a soldering iron, and then weld when the element is connected. The pipes need to be heated to 300 tons. The iron is quite capable of doing this! Simply, they will warm longer. My device has a power of 2 kW, the old iron has 1 kW. But my device, again, is designed for welding pipes up to 63 mm, and for thinner ones, the regulator takes off power.
... This device is fully operational. Another thing is that it is not clear where to get the mandrels and sleeves. (Although, perhaps, they are sold separately, I was not interested).
-2
Reply To quote A complaint
Why waste time viewing descriptions of how to make bullshit?
-2
Reply To quote A complaint
Everything is clear - you need to buy a professional soldering iron for 400 euros, throw it away and screw the bushings on your own iron !!! This is not home-made ... under Stalin, it was possible to get 25 years of forest work in Kolyma for it as over wrecking .... and maybe shooting.
Author +5
Reply To quote A complaint
Here is a video for those who didn’t understand anything.

+1
Reply To quote A complaint
I probably don’t understand something, but how can I solder two plastic pipes with an iron so that they can hold at least 2 atmospheres (this is the pressure in the water supply system).
Gentlemen, I honestly tell you, I do not understand. Tell me, or I'm a fool, or is it some kind of "byak", as our esteemed Admin said.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
The bushings must be replaceable, their set for different pipe diameters is not a word about them. As far as I know, Teflon bushings, so that the plastic does not stick to them. How to make teflon bushings at home ??
0
Reply To quote A complaint
A bunch of ambiguities, such a big bunch. To you - plus, to the copyist - minus.
0
Reply To quote A complaint
Why not a word about the element that heats the pipe itself, as far as I know the element that heats two pipes at once should be on both sides. Imagine I heated the pipe and then I heat the second and the first has cooled down. Our soldering machine can be rented for a day or two and not iron irons ..... as in this homemade product. The minus is bold.
+2
Reply To quote A complaint
Every man who plans to change water pipes in his house should have a special soldering iron that can solder polypropylene pipes.
More than a dubious statement. You may not be aware, but there are steel, copper and metal-plastic pipes.
The description is careless, incomprehensible, the product itself is dangerous.

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