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A simple do-it-yourself dosimeter on an Arduino Nano

Good day, dear the inhabitants of our site!
In this article, Konstantin, How-todo workshop, will show in detail how to make a simple dosimeter on Arduino nano and SBM20 (STS-5).

The dosimeter, by its principle of operation, is a very simple device.

To build it we need:

Actually, a device for recording charged particles, for which we will use a Geiger tube.

High voltage power supply for it, with an output voltage of about 400 V.
Indication device, sound or light, which will report breakdowns in the handset.

In the simplest case, you can use a speaker as an indicator.

A charged particle striking the counter wall knocks electrons out of it.
And in the gas that the tube is filled with, a breakdown occurs. For a very short time, the speaker receives power through the handset and it clicks. Of course, everyone will agree that clicks are not the best way to get information.

Clicks, of course, will be able to warn about an increase in the background, but counting them with a stopwatch to get accurate readings is simply an outdated method.

We will use new technologies and fasten them to the handset electronic brain with a display.


Let's move on to practice. Electronics is presented in the form of an Arduino nano board.
The program is very simple, it counts the number of tube breakdowns for a certain time interval, and displays the received data on the screen.

Also, at the time of breakdown, a radiation symbol is displayed, as well as a battery indicator.

The device’s power source is a 18650 battery.

Due to the fact that the arduino board is powered by 5V, a module with a converter is installed.
A battery management board is also installed to make the device fully autonomous.

Difficulties began when the author began to solve the problem with a high-voltage converter.
He originally made it himself. A transformer was wound on a ferrite core, about 600 turns of the secondary.

The signal came from the integrated PWM in the Arduino. Through a transistor, this works quite fine.

The author, however, I wanted to make the design accessible for repetition to anyone, even a beginner.
After some time, Konstantin found high-voltage converters on aliexpress.
Let's start testing the purchase version. He gave out a maximum of 300 Volts, with already declared 620.

Having ordered another, it turned out to be of different sizes, despite the fact that the previous ones were indicated in the description.
The last converter was still able to produce the required voltage of 400 V, the maximum was 450, with the manufacturer's declared 1200V.

We remodel the case for a different size of the converter.

In the end, we get a design that almost entirely consists of modules.

Boost Converter.

Battery charge control board.

5 volt boost module.

Brain in the form of arduino nano.

The display is 128 by 64, but in the end, 128 by 32 pixels will be applied.


Also, transistors 2N3904, resistors with 10MΩ and 10KΩ, a capacitor with a capacity of 470pF are required.


On-off switch.

Battery, buzzer with built-in generator.

And, of course, the main element is the Geiger counter applied model STS5.


It can be replaced by a similar one, SBM20, and, in principle, any similar one.
When replacing the counter, it will be necessary to make adjustments to the program, according to the sensor documentation.
In the used STS5 counter, the number of micro-roentgen per hour corresponds to the number of breakdowns in the tube in 60 seconds.

The case, as usual, is printed on a 3D printer.




We begin to collect.
The first step is to set the output voltage of the converter using a trimming resistor.

According to the documentation, for STS5 it is about 410 volts.

Next, we simply connect all the modules according to the scheme.

The modular principle simplifies circuitry to a minimum.
When assembling, it is desirable to use rigid single-wire wires, for example from twisted pair.

Thanks to them, the entire device is easy to assemble on a table.

After assembly, just put it in the case.

An important nuance. In order for our device to work, it is necessary to install a jumper on the high-voltage module.

We connect the minus of the input with the minus of the output.

But we cannot control high voltage directly with the Arduino. To do this, we make the isolation circuit on the transistor.

We solder with a hinged installation, insulate with hot melt adhesive or heat shrink, to whom it is more convenient.




In the connector of the positive high-voltage output, we install a 10MΩ resistor.




It is advisable to make the terminals for connecting the tube itself from copper foil.



But for tests, you can fix it on twists. Observe the polarity of the tube.
We install the display, connect it with a loop with connectors.




Check the insulation very well, the screen is located next to the high-voltage module.




Mounting is ready, we install the entire structure in the housing.


Everything is finished, the device shows a normal background radiation.



Links to components.


128 * 32 OLED



The Geiger counter was introduced for you by the author of the project, Konstantin, How-todo workshop.

7.2
7.1
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87 comments
with an increased background, the arduino will not have time to react to all sensor breakdowns

Where do you get the raised background?
based on the transistor during a breakdown of somewhere 1-1.2 volts
How was such a high voltage recorded?
Greetings, for some reason I have false positives similar to pickups. With the LED, everything works fine as well as a clear buzzer buzzer. And yet it seems to me that with an increased background, the arduino will not have time to react to all breakdowns of the sensor. Perhaps you need to adjust this programmatically.
As a result, it does not work as it should, although on the basis of the transistor during breakdown it is somewhere 1-1.2 volts and it opens, but the arduino does not always record these breakdowns. Again, I refer to the fact that it is possible to fix this programmatically
Quote: les1200
between pin d2 and Arduino ground 0.7 in
So, the transistor base is connected to d2.
Should work between pin D2 and the emitter of the transistor. The signal is very short. Put the LED.Check voltage everywhere. After the step-up transformer, I have somewhere 385-387 V, and after the 10M resistor - 180 V. Check the pinout of the transistor at kt315, the base is not in the middle. In general, I have BC 547, but it does not matter, any similar npn transistor. If it does not help, there may be a problem in the sensor.
Quote: Donchanin
Nominal from 200 Ohms to 1Kom, any.

It’s strange, but I have no changes between pin d2 and Arduino ground 0.7, so there’s no account, tell me what can be? Assembled according to your scheme and still does not work (((
Nominal from 200 Ohms to 1Kom, any.
The transistor opens with a current of 400 V through 10 MΩ when the sensor is triggered.
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Filters do not. This capacitor is not needed at all, since it only drags the fronts.
I repeat that the author’s power supply scheme is fundamentally wrong, and he set the voltage at the output of the BB converter much higher than the nominal value.

It seems to me that the transistor should not open with a "minus" from the sensor, but by connecting between a 10 MΩ resistor and the "plus" of the sensor. Naturally lowering the voltage to 4-5 volts.
Filters do not. This capacitor is not needed at all, since it only drags the fronts.
I repeat that the author’s power supply scheme is fundamentally wrong, and he set the voltage at the output of the BB converter much higher than the nominal value.
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Yes, provided that the voltage at the output of the BB converter is correctly set.

What do you think, if there is no condenser, the nominal value of which was indicated by the author, is it possible to put more or less? Is it here, as I understand it, it stands as a filter? Or am I mistaken?
Yes, provided that the voltage at the output of the BB converter is correctly set.
It seems to me that with a nominal value of 2 resistors 210 KOhm, your base will have about 8 volts, provided that you have 400 volts at the input
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Also required .... 10MΩ and 10KΩ resistors,
A divider of 1: 1000 will give 0.4 V based on the transistor. How it will open is a mystery. ((
The case, as usual, is printed on a 3D printer.
It is not clear why the grill is made in the sensor compartment. To collect dust and dirt? )))
In the diagram in the lower right corner, the connection of the charging module and the boost module is reversed. ((
But we cannot control high voltage directly with Arduino. To do this, we make the isolation circuit on the transistor.
Well tell me honestlyaboutPeople, how are you going to "manage high voltage"? )))

2 resistor needed at least 20 kOhm?
Guest Alex
If you managed to assemble the circuit and everything works, could you share it, the author’s circuit is certainly not working.
Guest Alex
I would ideally write my program and it would work on incoming pulses on the same pin D2 so that when a logical unit appeared, he would count it, also through a transistor, only it would be necessary to connect between the 10 m resistor and the plus of the counter, and then through the divider voltage, this voltage is supplied to the base of the transistor, opens it and the collector connected to +5 volts through the emitter would give a unit to arduino, and in order not to burn it, it would put a zener diode at 4.7 volts so as not to burn pin D2.
But while in the IDE arduino I am not strong and not able to write such a program, I am tormented by what is on the Internet (((
But how the author works this scheme is a mystery to me
Guest Alex
I, too, have been fighting for a whole week and nothing, the buzzer squeaks separately but Arduino doesn’t want to read impulses.
Arduino reads pulses by pinning pin D2 to the ground, but how can I achieve if the transistor receives a positive signal of more than 0.7 volts and shorts its collector and the emitter can’t understand (((only then will the pulses go!
Everything is powered by telephone charging 5V, 0.7A. Further increase to 10V, tk. The BB converter is switched on from 9-10V. The voltage at the output is 380V, 10V goes to the arduino. The earth is everywhere common, on a high-voltage converter, at the input and output, the earth is also common. The sensor is working, if you connect a little writer with a capacitor in parallel with it, there are signals, but they are very quiet. There are no signals on arduino. I tried various signal pickup schemes, including how on ArDos. Silence. A pull-up resistor is included at the input of the arduino. If you touch the ends of the sensor with a multimeter in voltage measurement mode, the LED lights up. I put the transistor like the author’s, then KT315, nothing ... Yesterday I wanted to turn off, but suddenly I accidentally touched the sensor case with my hand and the signals went, such as on the writing kit. As long as you hold your hand, the signals go, I take it away, no. In the morning I repeated everything, even if I touch with my hand there are still no signals, it’s already demolishing the tower .... I checked the transistor and sensor, everything is normal. What side I do not understand. Maybe someone tell me.
Gleb
is the micro USB 5V 1A 18650 charge module correctly drawn in the diagram? But should the battery be connected to B1 and B2? But in the diagram it is not clear why it is connected in this way
1. I have a board on TP4056 to charge the 18650 battery. Accordingly, this is a charger.
2. Of course, I will put the power switch, but I just pull out the wires.
3. The capacitor is simply not visible in the photo. It is behind the transistor. Why two resistors. Yes, for the fast that was at hand set (10 kom + 22 kom.) According to your advice.
4. Until the resistor breaks through. I don’t have 1 Cotton at 10 MΩ.
5. I agree that there are pickups. I’ve talked about this. And without pickups it doesn’t work at all. Does the author not pick up pickups? In his photo, the transistor lies on the BB converter.

1. Namely, to only charge. There is no discharge control on it. It is intended for use. only in memory.
2. And what kind of battery do you have? What is its capacity? What is the voltage on it?
3. Clear.
4. Not broken due to technological stock in production. Over time, it may break through, as there is no guarantee.
5. The author generally has many strange decisions. And the fact that due to pickups something flickers and twitches, this can not be called "works."
Quote: Sergei H.
And why when I put the capacitor 0.1 microfarad pulses in the gap between the base of the transistor and the cathode of the sensor?
DC mode changes. Maybe there is a leak on the sensor housing? Wipe it, preferably with alcohol or, at least, vodka.
Quote: Sergei H.
And this device stably gives out 8mkg / h.
Firstly, not μg / h, but μR / h. Secondly, exactly 8? Doesn't hang around this value, but stably shows 8?
This device. And why when I put the capacitor 0.1 microfarad pulses in the gap between the base of the transistor and the cathode of the sensor? And this device stably gives out 8mkg / h.
1. I have a board on TP4056 to charge the 18650 battery. Accordingly, this is a charger.
2. Of course, I will put the power switch, but I just pull out the wires.
3. The capacitor is simply not visible in the photo. It is behind the transistor. Why two resistors. Yes, for the fast that was at hand set (10 kom + 22 kom.) According to your advice.
4. Until the resistor breaks through. I don’t have 1 Cotton at 10 MΩ.
5. I agree that there are pickups. I’ve talked about this. And without pickups it doesn’t work at all. Does the author not pick up pickups? In his photo, the transistor lies on the BB converter.
Quote: Sergei H.
Well it doesn't work

Who is he"?
This toy is not intended to work in a special period. For household purposes, ordinary semiconductors are sufficient. Indirectly, the suitability of components can be estimated by what is used in industrially manufactured devices.
1. You have an unsuccessful board on TP4056: it is designed to work in a charger, not in a device. The author has the correct board, only it is turned on incorrectly.
2. There is no power switch.
3. The author has a capacitor parallel to the output of the transistor. Probably for good reason. ;) You have an incomprehensible node from a transistor and two resistors. ((
4. The resistor in the sensor circuit, judging by the photo, is not more than 0.25 W; therefore, its maximum operating voltage is not more than 250 V. It is necessary to set either one resistor per 1 W or two lower power in series at 5.1 MΩ each .
5. Just a bunch of antennas for radiation pickups and their reception. The interface between the sensor and Arduino should be in close proximity to the latter, and not 30 cm from it.
Does it not seem strange to you to make a device for registering radiation from components of a high degree of integration that are extremely at risk of failure due to radiation? A microprocessor, an ice display in which there are more transistors than in a microcontroller, a microcircuit for raising, a lithium driver. Missed nothing?
At my place lies dp-1. If I do not confuse anything in the name. It has a sb-20 and another sensor, I don’t remember the name. All assembled on transistors in met. buildings. This is a real thing! They can hammer nails, 38 years to the device, but it still works!
And this one will stop working even before it has time to measure something.
Well, it doesn’t work. But I connected a 0.1μF 600V capacitor to the gap (transistor base, sensor cathode) the pulses go.


Here is a photo. The sensor is working. I checked it clicks.
There may be poor contact in the signal circuits of the ice display. When connecting to solder everything normalizes.
Now open the sensor-transistor circuit (just solder one leg of the high-resistance resistor or sensor). If there is interference, deal with your explosive converter, it may be enough to add the output capacitance or to properly separate the "ground".
And once again I ask: draw a power connection diagram on a piece of paper (module on TP4056, converter Ubat-> 5 V, battery), take a picture and put it here. You can, of course, do this in any program. As you prefer.
If it were all right, it would work the same, that of USB, that of battery.
Counts without problems. Maybe the sensor is screwed up?
Disconnect the BB converter. Try shorting the K-E transistor. Will it count or not?
Replaced the resistor 10 KOhm, 32 KOhm. There were pulses. I thought I’ve earned. There’s just a pick-up that catches from the 400-volt converter, which works even without a sensor. Full of fignia. Most importantly, it measures from 8 to 14 μg / h. Here it is. And that catches the tip when I increase the voltage to 425 volts.
"We don’t cure according to the photograph." )))
Draw a diagram of the power connection on the leaflet (module on TP4056, converter Ubat-> 5 V, battery), take a picture and put it here. You can, of course, do this in any program. As you prefer.
Of course, you can also change 10 MΩ to 5.1 MΩ, but the efficiency of the device will decrease. And about the wrong ratio of resistors is written in the very first comment.
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Since you persist in your statement and unwillingness to share a secret circuit, try switching the power supply not until the boost module, but after. What will happen?

Ivan, sorry I don’t understand how to switch the power after the boost module?
Thanks, I'll try.
Replace the base resistor.
Since you persist in your statement and unwillingness to share a secret circuit, try switching the power supply not until the boost module, but after. What will happen?
Not MOM, but Mom. If the voltage is stable, then replace the basic 10 kΩ resistor with 20 ... 30 kΩ.
I looked at the comments under the video, one describes the same thing this device does not work. There are no pulses from the sensor. I will do ARDOS on arduino.
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Quote: Sergei H.
Yes, everything is right in my diet.
Not! If there are no problems from USB, but from the battery, then it cannot be right (unless, of course, the battery is working).
Once again I ask - draw the Arduino power scheme.

Why draw. It’s not possible to make a mistake here. + To + - to-how to explain this, I think it’s just that the display doesn’t have time to load right away, when the battery, from usb, is probably delayed.
Quote: Ivan_Pokhmelev
Probably not mom, but MOhm? Before deciding on a resistor, tell us how you set the sensor supply voltage, with which device, at what point.

As I already said, the converter made on the MC34063. It does not have a voltage drop, what to measure with a multimeter with an input 1 MOM, that 10 MOM, which is a static voltmeter. Moreover, the voltage is very stable. I recommend it.
Probably not mom, but MOhm? Before deciding on a resistor, tell us how you set the sensor supply voltage, with which device, at what point.
Quote: Sergei H.
Yes, everything is right in my diet.
Not! If there are no problems from USB, but from the battery, then it cannot be right (unless, of course, the battery is working).
Once again I ask - draw the Arduino power scheme.
Quote: Sergei H.
Yes, everything is right with me on the power supply. The question is different. From a 1.5 volt battery after 10 kom, the transistor opens without problems, and if you directly connect the transistor base to the resistor at 10 minutes it does not open. I reduce the rating to 1 minute without problems. How to be ?
From the 5th mom the same opens. Maybe I should put the 5th mom instead of the 10th mom. I have a sbm-20 sensor.
Yes, everything is right with me on the power supply. The question is different. From a 1.5 volt battery after 10 kom, the transistor opens without problems, and if you directly connect the transistor base to the resistor at 10 minutes it does not open. I reduce the rating to 1 minute without problems. How to be ?

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