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Kitchen: maximum capacity with a small area


It seems to me that many times I did a cabinet furniture: folding and hinged tables, chest of drawers and even every little thing. But such a large-scale product for the first time. And since the beginning of a new kitchen already laidthen there’s nowhere to retreat.

From the source data:
• Use the available area to the maximum. So - cabinets in the ceiling. And so that they do not look too bulky, the hinged need to be made in two levels and different colors.
• The length of the kitchen is 4 meters. But you need to leave a niche for an ironing board with a width of about 200 mm at one wall.
• Wash only consignment note. And so that it adjoins the stove. I just didn’t find a new one: “the day before yesterday” is the most frequent comment of sellers. Therefore, I did not come up with anything better than using the old one.
• Water supply and drain pipe - in the lower left corner. Since the base is also concreted at the drain, the depth of the cabinet itself should be less.
• A 20-liter boiler and osmosis for cleaning with a 5-liter water tank should fit in the sink. And if possible - also a bin.
• Width of cooker hood 500 mm. In addition, there should be a full-size, not narrow dishwasher and refrigerator.
• The microwave oven must not stand on the refrigerator - high. So, you need to come up with a niche for her.
But most importantly, two risers: gas and heating. Which naturally also branch to the side. Plus - made ventilation duct. So it’s impossible to use ready-made wardrobes and choose the necessary kit: you have to do it yourself. Or order: but then the price tag turns out to be just "horse".
Taking into account all these requirements, restrictions, the sketch was as follows:



I also decided to make a flat cabinet with a depth of 120 mm, but a large area (0.4 by 1.5 meters), a first-aid kit for every little thing, plus a shelf-bread box.

I didn’t want to cut it and where to glue the edge: anyway, everything is individual. That's just a friend who saw the finished kitchen and wanted the same (the kitchens themselves are the same, only mirrored), reassured me. Therefore, I will give:
• 60x300 - 2 pcs. edge with 2 long sides and 1 short - shelf 0
• 60x350 - 2 pcs. edge on 2 long sides - shelf 0
• 85x400 - 1 pc. edge on all sides - threshold
• 85x800 - 2 pcs. edge on all sides - threshold
• 100x200 - 1 pc. edge on 1 long side - shelf 14
• 100x310 - 6 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - withdrawable shelves 11A
• 100x480 - 6 pcs.edge on 2 sides, long and short - withdrawable shelves 11A
• 100x500 - 2 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - shelves 6A
• 100x768 - 2 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 8A
• 100x768 - 2 pcs. cut under the T-profile from 2 sides, long - cabinet 6
• 100x768 - 2 pcs. edge on 2 sides, long - cabinet 10
• 110x368 - 6 pcs. edge on 2 long sides - cabinet 13
• 120x1500 - 2 pcs. edge on 3 sides, 2 short and 1 long - cabinet 13
• 120x368 - 4 pcs. edge on 1 long side - cabinet 13
• 150x468 - 1 pc. edge on 2 sides, long - cabinet 2
• 150x568 - 1 pc. edge on 2 sides, long - cabinet 5
• 150x698 - 1 pc. edge on 2 sides, long - cabinet 1
• 150x768 - 1 pc. edge on 2 sides, long - cabinet 4
• 180x310 - 2 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - withdrawable shelves 11A
• 180x480 - 2 pcs. edge on 2 sides, long and short - withdrawable shelves 11A
• 190x268 - 2 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 8, cabinet 9
• 200x350 - 2 pcs. edge on 3 sides, 2 short and 1 long - shelf 14
• 200x468 - 2 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 2
• 200x500 - 3 pcs. edge on 3 sides, 2 short and 1 long - cabinet 1, cabinet 2
• 200x568 - 4 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 5, cabinet 9
• 200x698 - 2 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 1
• 200x768 - 4 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 4, cabinet 8
• 230x968 - 2 pcs. edge on 2 sides, long - cabinet 3
• 240x500 - 1 pc. edge on 2 sides, long - shelves 6A
• 270x968 - 2 pcs. edge on 2 sides, long - cabinet 7
• 280x300 - 4 pcs. edge on 3 sides, 2 short and 1 long - cabinet 8, cabinet 9
• 280x500 - 7 pcs. edge on 3 sides, 2 short and 1 long - cabinet 2, cabinet 3, cabinet 4, cabinet 5
• 280x600 - 4 pcs. edge on 3 sides, 2 short and 1 long - cabinet 6, cabinet 7
• 280x768 - 1 pc. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 6
• 280x968 - 4 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 3, cabinet 7
• 300x350 - 2 pcs. edge on 3 sides, 2 short and 1 long - cabinet 8A
• 300x768 - 2 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 8A
• 368x500 - 2 pcs. edge on 1 side, short - cabinet 11
• 370x768 - 1 pc. edge on 2 sides, long - cabinet 12
• 450x720 - 2 pcs. edge on 3 sides, 1 short and 2 long - cabinet 10
• 450x768 - 1 pc. edge on 2 sides, long - cabinet 10
• 500x720 - 2 pcs. edge on 3 sides, 1 short and 2 long - cabinet 12
• 500x720 - 2 pcs. edge on 2 sides, short and long - cabinet 11
• 500x768 - 2 pcs. edge on 1 side, long - cabinet 12

In addition, you need a piece of the 1.8 meter countertop and pieces of hardboard: 295x596, 295x795, 340x475 - 4 pcs., 395x715, 395x1495, 495x495, 495x595, 495x725, 495x795, 495x995, 595x795, 595x995, 715x95

Facades - plastic in the edge (gross dimensions, the sawmills themselves know very well how much they need to be taken away):
Green:
• 70x390
• 150x400 - 3 pcs.
• 270x400
• 400x720 - 4 pcs.
• 400x500
• 500x500
• 500x600
• 500x730
• 500x800
• 500x1000
• Rhombus 300x300 with a height of 200
White:
• 300x600
• 300x800
• 400x500 - 2 pcs.
• 400x600 - 2 pcs.
• 500x600 - 2 pcs.
Green is just on the sheet, and white is halfway in.



In addition, we need hardware:
• Confirmates - 250 pcs.
• Coupling bolts 4 mm - 20 pcs.
• Coupling bolts 8 mm - 30 pcs.
• An emphasis under removable regiments - 80 pieces.
• Hinges - 38 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 16 mm. - 250 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws 25 mm - 50 pcs.
• Gas stops: 60N - 10 pcs.
• 90N - 4 pcs.
• Pens - 22 pcs.
• Latches for thresholds - 6 pcs.
• Side caps for countertops - 1 set
• Decorative legs: - 12 pcs. adjustable in height, not less than 100 mm
• Silicone dampers - 2 sheets.
• Stickers on the heads of confirmations white mat - 2 sheets
• L-shaped steel awnings - 4 pcs.
• Adjustable awnings - 17 pcs.
• The tire for canopies of 2 meters - 4 pieces. and self-tapping dowels for their fastening
• Wide white plastic corners - 5 pcs.
• T-shaped profile white opaque - 4 m.
• Shelves for dryers - 1 set.
• Skids 450 mm - 4 sets.
• U-shaped stops - 50 pcs.



I took many hardware with a margin, so I stayed.
First, they brought the cut to the cabinet-drawers (I ordered it immediately with gluing)



and hardboard.



Again a little stopper: where so much have I ordered? And were the delivery men right when they brought me another, not mine, order? But as they say, eyes are afraid, and hands do. Therefore, he began to collect boxes.

Yes, I completely forgot: tools. You will certainly need:
• Screwdriver: used two so as not to rearrange the drill head.
• Directly confirmed, conventional drills 4, 4.5, 7 mm and 10-bit.
• Hex and cross head.
• Milling cut holes for the hinge.
• Awl.
• Ruler, tape measure, marker, pencil.
• Rubber mallet - always white, so that no traces remain on the cabinets.
• Impact drill or hammer drill to hang tires.
• Sealant (preferably white, not transparent), masking tape.
• Level.
• Teflon tape for plumbing.
• Gas hose and hoses for the mixer.
• Furniture stapler: although you can do with a hammer and nails.
• Sharp furniture knife or scissors for metal: to cut holes in the hardboard under awnings.
Look like that's it.

But even before assembling the “boxes”, one important thing needs to be done: seal the two slats in the dryer and the countertop at the ends and the rear edge. To do this, glue with paper tape everything that should not be stained,



and coat, rubbing lightly (you have to twist the finger), hemetic. We hammer in a T-shaped profile and only now remove the paper tape.



We also do with the countertop: and until the sealant has frozen, we screw the side plugs to the countertop,



and planks - to almost assembled drying.



Now the sealant will be as it should. And spilled tea on the countertop, and the wet plates, cups that you put in the dryer, the chipboard is not terrible: it will not get wet and will not swell.

There is nothing complicated in assembling the boxes themselves: they put in two parts - they drilled,



screwed confirm. If necessary - a little tweaked, pounded with a mallet.



And so - many times.



While the back wall of hardboard can also trim the resulting box. Therefore, first nail the staples (or nails, which option you choose) crosswise, and then all the others.



The legs of the lower cabinets. I chose simple ones, because I did not know whether I would close them with thresholds or not, but I provided for such an opportunity. Therefore, I took cylindrical.
The mount is also crosswise, first two screws,



then two others. Moreover, those in the wall can be taken more authentically: it will be more reliable.



At the same time, the front legs were slightly sunk, a couple of centimeters, while the distant legs were screwed under the cut: so the cabinet will be as stable as possible.



One is ready, and we are doing the rest. By the way, my facades were a little late, so I screwed them later, and you can do everything right away.



The cabinet under the sink is different: it does not have a back wall. And to compensate for the reduced stiffness due to its absence, as well as the fact that there is no top cover, two 100 mm wide strips will replace it.



And do not forget to grease the ends with sealant: it certainly will not be superfluous, given the increased humidity. We glue the contour with paper tape, apply it,



and smear well, rubbing it. Just like at the ends of a countertop and a drying cabinet.
Wall cabinets differ from the lower ones only in that they are smaller, they do not have legs but there are, accordingly, canopies. For the kitchen, I took adjustable in two planes: for a long time I wanted to try them. Although you can take ordinary ones.
They are screwed into a corner and into the edge,



in hardboard, a rectangle of 30 by 45 mm is cut out and everything is ready: you can nail it. He does not block the adjustment, and closes the rear wall of the cabinet.



But these are ordinary cabinets-boxes, which will be closely adjacent to the back wall. Whereas in my case, out of 9 wall-mounted cabinets, 6 fall on the ventilation duct and pipe risers. And where it is possible - cabinets 4, 5, 8, 9 will only adjoin the wall with vertical walls. Number 2 - only one, and number 1 in general, hang only on the coupling bolts on adjacent cabinets.
At first, everything is simple: we mark and drill holes for confirmations and stops for removable shelves.



We assemble the box, draw a line on the side parts connecting the smaller parts, and use a drill bit of 8 (although it may differ for you), drill 5 holes on each side.



We drive in U-shaped guides.



Try on a sheet of hardboard. If necessary, turn them a little. We also act on the other side.



Awnings. We retreat 16 mm so that they are all in a row, drill holes with a five of the drill two holes in the chipboard, drill holes in the canopies themselves, and on the "mother" of the coupling bolt, we fasten them.



And on the reverse side we attract with M4 screws with countersunk heads 16 mm long. Repeat in mirror.



But just do not rush to nail the back wall of the cabinets.It is easier to adjust the gas stops of the facades opening upwards without it.
Niche cabinet for a microwave. I understand that it would be more aesthetic to assemble it on dowels, but given its weight, the reliability of the design comes to the fore. Therefore, the rear half-wall strut on 6 confirmations,



whereas the side walls - by 10.



It turned out reliably.

Shallow pencil case No. 13, hanging separately, was made not on adjustable, but ordinary canopies: I was afraid that he would move to the side, and there was no place left to make a stopper. Therefore so.



Roll-out shelves. A box is nothing wise: two confirmations per side (although one would be enough)



from below, the hardboard is pressed by runners (they need to be screwed in three or four places with screws), and the rest is shot by brackets.



But I do not fasten the runners to the drawer on the sides: although there are holes there.



Now the response runners in the box itself. Just do not repeat my mistake: first fasten the runners, and only then - nail the back wall to the cabinet. I did the opposite, and I had to suffer a lot.



The cabinet is ready, it remains only to wait for the facades.



But since the facades were still late (holidays were superimposed), I decided to do what I could. And first of all, it’s a wash-stand. By the way, while I set it, I said thanks more than once that the facades did not reach: it would be less convenient to put it in and out, with doors.
It was simple for me: I cut, set instead of the old curbstone, so I did not have to adjust anything. It’s only necessary, when changing flexible hoses, buy new ones: I decided to save money and then removed and installed everything again.



When I install the sink, I coat it with sealant directly where it adjoins the wall from two sides. And also another, between the sink and stove. It turned out very well: the practice of such a solution in the old kitchen proved to be just great.

Hooray, the facades arrived. And the first thing I did was a small shelf above the kitchen table for bread, lazybones from the TV receiver and other things. The practice of the former kitchen has shown that this is a very, very convenient subject.



Hinges. In the facades



having retreated 22 mm from the edge, I make a hole with a special drill-mill with a diameter of 35 mm,



and with two screws 16 mm long I fix the loop.



Now putting the facade close to the cabinet box, I attract. It’s better to twist the screws in the middle of the holes in the loop,



since then they, as well as directly the screws on the hinge, need to adjust the doors.



Gas stops for doors that open up. I will not advertise the manufacturer, but the installation instructions are drawn on the packaging of each of them, understandable even to the "teapot", which I consider myself to be.



Therefore, 2 screws from the stop set in the door,



3 - in the cabinet box,



two clicks and voila, the emphasis is. You can do one on the cabinet, but I prefer to put two on each side. So the door does not warp, and if one suddenly fails, then it will not hammer on the head when you look for something inside. Only pick up less rigid if you also put in two.



Repeat the same operation for fastening the doors and installing gas stops many times until all the cabinets are ready.

Facades of drawers. Several times already collected something similar and always use a little trick. I glue a strip of double-sided foam tape on the facades and carefully lay them out. So they will be as even as possible, with equal distances, and you won’t have to twist anything.
I fasten each of them with two self-tapping screws from the inside: then when I put the handles in, they will also attract her.



Everything, the cabinets are assembled, it remains to install them. But first you need to lay a new flexible gas hose. And for its fastening I used half-inch clips for water pipes.



It’s easy next. Put one stand,



dishwasher and a second. Aligned to the wall,



and then adjusted the height of the legs. Here is the wrench and level to help you.



He laid the countertop (still had to cut a hole in it under the gas riser), and pulled it from the bottom with screws. The bottom row of the kitchen is ready.



Now the top one. I never used such adjustable canopies, so the debut.The bar was fastened with ordinary thick self-tapping screws with dowels with a diameter of 10 mm. In this case, you do not need to screw them into each hole in the bar. As I was told in the store where I purchased all the accessories, two screws for each cabinet are enough. And place them as close as possible to the canopies of the cabinets themselves: you definitely won’t be mistaken.
At the same time, in order to adjust the height of the cabinets to a minimum, be sure to use the level. Along the entire length: the bar strives to deviate slightly up and down.



Drying is hanging. The cabinet, which above it, just the opposite, does not hang in any way. Because I pull it with two rows of coupling bolts,



for reliability. Done.



Further hood, so the length of the strap for another cabinet is not enough. I fasten the second. Naturally, it must already be trimmed.
The cabinets, where the back wall adjoins close to the kitchen wall, do not cause problems: hung, leveled, tilted out, level, took up the next. But those cabinets behind which pipes run and are less deep are more difficult to regulate. When assembling, do not forget to drill two holes on each side with a diameter of 8 mm for the adjustment screws and store a long, thin screwdriver.



And so that after adjustment these "black holes" do not gap, just glue them with circles for confirmations.



The cabinets themselves are tightened together with tie bolts: so the whole structure will be almost monolithic,



and will hang securely. Even the only open cabinet, the one where there will be a crock-pot and a very difficult microwave oven, and not hanging on suspensions in any way, will also be a single whole.



The topmost row of cabinets. Again, the bar, or rather one and a half from the exhaust pipe to the end of the wall, we first hang a large cabinet, and then the one above the hood.



We hang the whole row of cabinets, align them, tighten not only between each other, but also with the row below.



The kitchen is hanging.



An open shelf to close the hood as much as possible. While designing, I was thinking of just getting along with two horizontal shelves, but then changed my mind. Therefore, I made this simple design:



and set it down.



Just pulled confirmations three on each side.



Narrow cupboard under the exhaust duct. I ordered the facade in advance, but I didn’t think how to make it. Therefore, he acted simply: a small square that will simply stand on a drying shelf.



And in order not to override it, he made it long: so it will rest against the wall.



Thresholds Just screw the latches around the edges and put the thresholds on the legs of furniture.



Now we fasten the handles. No tricks, two holes with a diameter of 4 mm in each door and you're done.



For the first-aid kit, they bought not staples, but mushrooms-blabs: they are less bulky. But they are also fastened with two screws, only the distance between them is minimal.



As for me, it turned out pretty well. And given the amount that I saved (absolutely all sellers indicated the corresponding price tag for an exclusive order, although for me - box-by-box), it turned out quite inexpensively.





That's all. It remains to remove the protective film from the facades (the son did this), stick on silicone dampers, circles so that when the doors are closed they do not plow too much, adjust them again and you can call your spouse to accept the work done.
8.5
8.5
8.7

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29 comments
Guest Cyril
The sizes are all different, the colors are the same, the material does not look harmonious, the work is not for oneself and done by guests from Azerbaijan (
Not quite so, if the customer asks, I can install the outlet at least on the ceiling, and this will be his desire and he will not make a claim. But if I am able to convince him that she is needed there, he can later show me for its uselessness.At the expense of the outlets located at the bottom, I already wrote that there are no problems with them, everyone has enough cord lengths. At the top is the same. But if we agreed on one option, but in the end the client replayed something, so much so that the sockets were above the stove - sorry, the alteration is at your expense. I do not impose my options, but suggest them, talk about what for what is needed. In your version I have nothing to argue for the combination of sink and stove, I can talk about it, but I have nothing to say why it is better. Okay, let's close this topic, in the end you did the kitchen furniture and not the wiring, did it for yourself, and as you need and as you are used to. And asking you why this is exactly so is tantamount to asking a left-hander why he writes with his left hand, the answer is obvious, it’s so convenient for him.
Author
But it turned out. Although I agree, the design does not smell there: there were other tasks. Minimum external dimensions - maximum capacity. And it worked out.
The furniture collector is not a designer. Although, the assembly also has moments, even considering the fact that you have experience.
Author
Now I understand. Classic option - offer several options for the client to choose, but it suits you. And all: "and the wolves are full, and the sheep are intact."
And a complete alteration, with gating the walls, shifting the tiles, and so on - the total amount will turn out to be not ice at all. At the same time, what prevents the sockets from being located completely on the floor, directly above the baseboard, and let the wires in it? The client does not pull out, inserts forks from the same plate or hood several times a day? And so - the final cost will be significantly lower and will be given preference to you.
I seem to have explained what my interest is in fulfilling orders for installation of wiring with possible options for the location of household appliances, which I can offer customers who are undecided with their desires. Usually this is done during a general repair with a complete release of the room, a complete replacement of the wiring and subsequent wall decoration. If I suggest that the customer make overhead sockets or use extension cords laid somewhere behind the cabinets, then this will probably be the last time I was contacted with an order for wiring installation. Therefore, I offer various options for the location of the equipment, draw a sketch, agree with the customer, and already calculate the location of the outlets on it. Then any alterations are performed for a fee. You have one of the options for the arrangement of equipment that you made "for yourself", and which naturally you should like. To recommend this arrangement to the customer, I need to explain its advantages, which I wanted to hear from you, as the designer of the entire complex and as an active user. I can’t tell the customer why you need an intermediate table, from the sink, right onto the stove,
Author
I just don’t really understand, but what does the installation of a sink-stove and sockets have to do with it? Only that from the stove, as well as from the boiler, which I also have in the sink, there are wires. So what? They go themselves and go. What has been working in my kitchen for five years already: everything is ok. In addition, because the grease from the stove is plugged .... the socket body is on, and once every few years it is easier to change than to wash, there are no problems.
Author
By wiring: what prevents you from screwing an external outlet in a closed case (with a back cover) to the bottom of the wall cabinet? so it doesn’t interfere, and is protected from splashes - still high, and doesn’t strike the eye? And let the wire go up the wall. To, too, did not catch the eye.
I just had holes in the wall, and used them. And if it hadn’t, he did so. It is clear that there is often beaten railing for all kinds of suspensions, hooks for dishes, jars with spices, but I don’t have it.
Author
In the old kitchen, the mirror, the faucet stood by the wall. And when we moved, he turned out next to the stove.And it turned out terribly convenient: a kettle, a pot can be filled without removing from the stove. Therefore, thoughts to transfer it to the wall, and then put some kind of decorative plug, for many years does not arise. So definitely recommend it.
Author
Sorry, not a valve - a shut-off valve.
What kind of valve do you have installed? I have never seen any valves installed in the apartment gas network. It is not clear why, what is its function? And where does he stand - on a riser or on a branch? If on tap, then before or after the tap?
I’m not just curious about the bedside table between the stove and the sink, I have a little "selfish interest". I can, so to speak, optionally deal with electrics (just a sabbath sometimes), and I know that the most difficult task is to determine the location of outlets in the kitchen. You need to install sockets under the stove (bottom), hood (top), osmotic filter (under the sink), dishwasher, refrigerator, possibly a TV, microwave and above the desktop. Additional outlets also require their own conditions (in the future, an installed outlet can simply be closed with a corner sofa). The owners themselves often cannot decide on the location of their equipment and ask for advice on how best to do it, so they have to offer them options describing their advantages, and if rearrangement of the stove, hood and dishwasher does not create any special problems (their wires are already quite long) , then with sockets above the desktop it may turn out that they will be above the stove, which is not gut at all, especially if the apron from the tile is already laid (it seems to you familiar with this problem, judging by how the stove is connected). That's why I am interested in the advantages of installing a stove next to the sink, so as not to get into the millet, but while God was merciful, no one complained about my recommendations. Of course, I understand that potatoes can be crushed in a frying pan or in a saucepan standing on the stove, I admit that washed meat can be cut on a cutting board placed in a pan or saucepan, I suggest that vegetables washed for salad can be put in a bowl, which is not on cooker, but how to cut a fish such as pike washed after cleaning and gutting? or put a cutting board on the sink?
Another question - the tap for drinking water does not interfere, was it not better to install it closer to the wall?
Author
Locksmiths from Gorgaz came in five years (I live so much in this apartment) only once. We examined the joints (did not even wash them), checked whether the valve was working. I heard from them a recommendation that a flexible hose (no complaints that the plate is connected to them) should be changed every 5 years to a new one. Which I actually did.
Author
This is the case when there is no consensus and cannot be: everyone is used to it in different ways. It’s convenient for me, it’s exactly the opposite for you.
As for gas workers, it seems that everything depends on the size of cockroaches in the heads of the VET and VDGO heads, by the way, our former VET boss in the kitchen has a backlight wire on hanging cabinets fastened with plastic clamps to the gas pipe, which she categorically forbids doing the rest (I saw it myself when she’s chandelier changed in the kitchen). Apparently, each individual boss perceives the directions from above in their own way, and they think it is better to overtake than not to overtake, but they don’t go to houses with inspections, and ordinary locksmiths don’t give a damn about leakages (unless of course there are absolutely obvious violations like connecting with an oxygen hose) no, thank God.
Author
She. but if you remove the cover, the fat flies to the wall. and again, something might fall behind her: she’s not standing close to the wall. and so is protection.
Author
not alone. Moreover, and countertops, and sinks from different manufacturers, and even an apartment. and the result is the same. although my mother-in-law doesn’t have one. as I understand it, it all depends on its use.
Author
I left: therefore, the pedestal does not have a back wall
Author
Much easier: it must be put somewhere.
The work and its description are definitely excellent! But with this:
On the contrary, I do not understand the bedside table between the stove and the sink, but what for? Just washed, cleaned and immediately into the pan.
I allow myself to disagree: for example, when peeling potatoes, it is much more convenient not to occupy a place on the stove, but to put the pan next to the sink, in addition, the nearest burner can be occupied and you have to drag each potato through the stove, dripping water from it.
And why, let me curiosity, do you need an ironing board in the kitchen?
I remembered the old one, I came home from work, I couldn’t tear my wife off the TV, “Slave Izaura” and after her, without a break, “Santa Barbara”, there were no commercial breaks either, but there was a problem with dinner! I lied from the old CRT monitor to the TV in the kitchen, there were no Chinese Internet sites either, I had to turn on my head and do it yourself! So an ironing board in the kitchen is the right solution! Frau = kinder, kuchen, kirchen! xaxa
And why didn’t they remove the lid from the stove? Or do you close it?))))
I shot from all at once))) ..
By the way, it is very similar to our Brest "Hephaestus" ... Isn't it?
The sink is mortise: the parents had experience twice: both times, between it and the countertop made of chipboard, water slowly flowed in and was elementarily swollen.

I already made a kitchen for myself 12-15 years ago. Crashed the sink. (Then it was cool)))) While the "normal flight")))). Yes, and I have not heard about such a misfortune from someone ... And then "twice - yes, only one rake"))). They are not the same one "master" could?))) Nothing can get there if it is cut correctly, the elastic is not jammed and the silicone is also placed correctly ...
• Water supply and drain pipe - in the lower left corner. Since the base is also concreted at the drain, the depth of the cabinet itself should be less.

And leave it all inside the cabinet?
The length of the kitchen is 4 meters. But you need to leave a niche for an ironing board with a width of about 200 mm at one wall.

And why, let me curiosity, do you need an ironing board in the kitchen?
Author
By the way, I have a 4 meter hose: and this is not the longest in that store. And for the praise of my work - thanks.
Author
The distance from the outlet to the gas valve was measured - just half a meter is. Plus, it’s an invoice: you can always remove it quickly. In the shelf where the microwave stands, there is just no back wall: this valve is located behind it. When I set it, I washed the joints myself: I know the rules, everything is ok.
Author
The sink is mortise: the parents had experience twice: both times, between it and the countertop made of chipboard, water slowly flowed in and was elementarily swollen. And for a countertop made of artificial stone, such a price was broken that the option fell away by itself. And so - nothing will flow and nothing will inflate. On the contrary, I do not understand the bedside table between the stove and the sink, but what for? Just washed, cleaned and immediately into the pan. And the cereal, which to rinse before cooking? So this option, the sink-stove is definitely more practical.
Gas hose and stove transfer. I don’t know, but with us it’s the opposite. Any rigid connection just needs a project. Even a corner-turn cannot be screwed too much. And if a flexible barrier - no questions. I took in a specialized store, certified, namely a GAS hose, and everything is ok. My friend puts gas boilers, so he advised. And what to do, and where to buy everything.
First of all, I want to say that you are well done, in my opinion to develop and assemble such a kitchen is comparable to building a house. I have a couple of questions, purely out of curiosity. First you wrote
Sink only waybill. And so that it adjoins the stove.
what caused your option is justified and not just "I like it so much" or "I feel so comfortable", I want to know why. I believe that between the sink and stove should be at least 40 cm.a bedside table on which you can put what was in the sink (vegetables, meat, fish, cups, spoons, etc.), and not overthrow them through the stove.
Secondly, I’m interested in the question of how did you settle matters with Gorgaz when moving the stove? As far as I know (and I worked in this office), the length of a flexible metal (and any flexible) should not exceed one meter, and this requirement has been introduced here for a long time, due to the increasing explosions of domestic gas in residential buildings. Where is the gas shut-off valve located, because its gas workers are required to check and service (soap and oil) at least once a year. I also have a faucet and a counter in a wall cabinet, but I have “indulgence” in Gorgaz. In general, I would like to know in more detail such a serious moment as the connection and ease of maintenance of the gas stove. Yes, and also the electric outlet should not be closer than 0.5 m from the gas stove (it is allowed to install the outlet for the stove with electric ignition and an electric oven behind the stove below the level of the oven).

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